The quick answer
Stand the unit near a window and a wall socket, fit the window kit, connect the exhaust hose, seal every gap, plug in and set the drainage. The window kit is the part that matters: any gap around the hose lets hot air back into the room and cancels out much of the cooling.
Before you start
- Let it settle. If the unit travelled on its side, stand it upright for the time in the manual before switching on.
- Choose the spot. Close to the window so the hose stays short and straight, near a wall socket, on a level floor, with about 50 cm clear around it and away from curtains.
- Check the hose. Most reach 1.2 to 1.5 m. A long or kinked hose chokes airflow.
- Gather the kit. Window panel, hose, hose adaptor, foam strips and the screws supplied.
Match the kit to your window
| Window | Kit that works | Note |
|---|---|---|
| Horizontal slider | The standard sliding kit supplied | Adjusts to the width of the opening |
| Vertical sash | Rigid panel or sash kit | See the sash window guide |
| Casement | Panel fitted into the open casement or a tilted window | Seal the triangular gaps |
| Tilt-and-turn uPVC | Panel in the tilt position | Check the hinge can carry the load |
Sash windows need extra care: read portable air conditioners for sash windows.
Install it in seven steps
- Assemble the window kit. Fit the panel sections together and adjust the length to your opening.
- Seat it in the window. Close the window against the panel and tighten any locking screws.
- Seal the edges. Press adhesive foam strip along the top, bottom and sides of the panel.
- Attach the hose. Click the hose into the unit and the window panel adaptor. Keep the run short and avoid sharp bends.
- Position the unit. Stand it on a level surface and check the hose is not stretched or kinked.
- Plug in. Use a wall socket and avoid extension leads.
- Test it. Run cooling for fifteen to twenty minutes. Cool air should come from the front and the hose should feel warm. If it does not, check the seal.
Drainage
Cooling removes moisture. Most modern units evaporate it and expel it through the hose, so they rarely need emptying. In humid weather the internal tank can still fill and the unit will stop and show a warning.
- Self-evaporating: no action needed in normal use. Keep the drain plug in.
- Manual drain: place a shallow tray under the drain port, remove the plug and empty, then refit the plug.
- Continuous drain: connect a drain hose to the port and run it downhill into a bucket or outside.
Power and safety
- Plug straight into a 13A wall socket. A typical unit draws 4 to 8 amps.
- Do not use an extension lead unless it is fully unwound and rated for the load. A wall socket is better.
- Keep it away from baths and showers and from standing water.
- Units using R290 (propane) refrigerant contain a small flammable charge. Install in a room of the size recommended by the manual and keep it clear of heat sources.
Fixing common problems
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Cooling is weak | Gaps around the window kit, a kinked hose or a dirty filter | Reseal, straighten the hose and clean the filter |
| Loud rattling | Uneven floor or a loose hose | Level the unit and strap the hose |
| Water leaks | Full tank or a tilted unit | Empty the tank and level the unit |
| Stops with an error | Full water tank or blocked airflow | Drain, clear the filter and restart |
| Hot air in the room | Hose disconnected or leaking at the joint | Reconnect and seal the joint |
Still not cooling enough? Check you chose the right size with the BTU calculator.
Found this useful? Pass it on.
